Cover

Introduction

 

Jutta and Klaus in front of the Great Wall


In recent years, my second wife, Jutta Hartmann-Metzger, and I have very interesting experience journeys undertaken. At the turn of 2003/2004 we were on an adventurous cruise on the Nile to the ancient sights in Egypt ( Nile Cruise in Egypt).




The Karnak temple


Very interesting was the tour of Rajasthan, which we experienced in the fall of 2007, very intense and with many impressions. It was also a very tiring trip, because we placed the total distance of 2500 km in fourteen days, almost always with our bus back and on bumpy roads back.


The Taj Mahal


Quite different impressions gave us the 14-day stay in Kenya in October 2009. The political situation was still somewhat uncertain. Nevertheless, we ventured on a two-day jeep safari to Tsavo East National Park and were not disappointed. The subsequent relaxing holiday on the Indian Ocean, we found delightful and unforgettable.





The Red Elephant


Since we always allow us in every two years a long-haul, found recently in the period from 11 to 25 April 2011, the long-planned CHINA tour instead. Long time ago (1978) I had in South Korea as part of a week-long business trip already in contact with Asian culture (South Korea). These impressive traditions that seemed so interesting in South Korea, I could no longer find in China. The entire lifestyle has become (after 1990) westernized part of the modernization in an incredible way. But more of that later !






Korean wedding couple


Now through the other trips we had experience with the VISA procurement. But in the case of "China" it was a bit unusual that we should appear in person in Hamburg in the Chinese Consulate. On the Internet, we discovered the VISA service Bonn, took us to a total price of 109, - EUR procured the necessary VISA within a week. A visit to the Chinese Consulate was not required, and neither the A nor when leaving China there were problems .

Usually we use for flights from Frankfurt Airport a shuttle flight from Hanover Airport. A taxi takes us to Hildesheim Train Station and take the S-Bahn it comes to Hanover or continue to Hannover-Langenhagen airport.

This time we wanted to try alternative ways: by bus (the bus stop is located opposite our house) we went to the train station Hildesheim and from there with the ICE (2nd class) to Frankfurt. This worked quite well - only we could go (without transfers in Frankfurt) to the railway station to the airport directly. There are the corresponding compounds .

In the converted airport wandered a bit confused back and forth until we found the correct departure terminal . Mistakenly examined the switch from AIR CHINA in Terminal 2 ( he was but in Terminal 1). We first used the "Sky Train", connects Terminal 1 with Terminal 2. Bad it was on the return trip, because we were on Easter Monday on the road and numerous trains were delayed. Our scheduled train with change in Hanau (Hildesheim) no longer fit and we decided to take the ICE to Hannover. Since we had to drive from there to Hildesheim, we arrived - after a total journey time of 26 hours and a two-hour train delay - only at 24 clock back safely at home.

The train pushed us the "friendly" conductor forms entitled " passenger rights " in hand. Jutta went to the trouble and filled the requests made​. After 14 days and multiple calls sent us the track 42 - Euro (taxi costs plus compensation) to our account. What are the experiences we had done? In all likelihood, we will choose for our further travels the first variant (feeder flight from Hannover-Langenhagen). But in any case we allow ourselves to take the bus to the train station Hildesheim .

Since we are on the plane of the AIR CHINA could not book in advance the places we went to Frankfurt in time for the switch and could two opposite places (53 H and 53 J) reserve the right aisle in the tourist class. This has distinct advantages as we could - without regard to the other passengers - leave our seats and stretch our legs . On the return flight we chose the same arrangement and to be able to see on the way out the window, we will gladly renounced.

Our departure had begun at about 12 clock in front of our house and against 20 clock 30 launched our plane (Boeing 747) towards Beijing (via Siberia). The TV program soon running not working properly and the stewardesses hidden behind their "baby-face-mask " all their emotions. Nevertheless, we found the flight to be very pleasant and after a scheduled flight time of 9 hours we landed on Tuesday morning, 12 April 2011, around 11 clock 30 local time (time difference 6 h) on the Beijing airport. We had covered a distance of 8250 km and were grd from the outside temperature of 26 grd. C surprised.

At the time of the "Cold War" were the air travel to Asia much more complicated and dangerous. In my trip report " South Korea " I have written extensively about this:


We flew with SAS from Copenhagen to Amsterdam and from there with a KLM plane via Anchorage to Tokyo. After a one hour wait in the transit area (we were both really tired already) brought us on the last leg of an aircraft KOREAN AIRLINES to Seoul. Without the exact relationships to know, we headed back then not worry about the so-called " polar route" and the associated dangers. At this time had to be chosen for political reasons the polar route to East Asia. There was the Cold War and the Soviet Union did not allow flights over their territory. Shortly before our trip (20 April 1978) there had been in this respect to a nasty incident in which a passenger aircraft in the Korean Airlines Flight 902 (KAL 902) was involved.
This aircraft was from Paris to Seoul on the go. After landing and refueling in Anchorage (Alaska), this machine was not flown to Seoul, but due to a navigational error on Russian territory to Murmansk. The Russian hunter who approached her, had orders to shoot down this machine. He hit a grand piano - but still the Koreans on a frozen lake (near the Finnish border emergency landing).

 There were 2 dead, 107 passengers and crew members survived. Russian helicopter brought the survivors to flight to Helsinki. For some reason this event was us on our Korea - flight thankfully not known.
Were quite different with the information about another disaster of a Korean airliner (Flight KAL 007), on 1 September 1983, on the flight from New York via Anchorage to Seoul. Again, a navigation error was present and the machine fell west of the Russian island of Sakhalin on Soviet territory. Since the Soviets ran out of a provocation by the United States, they shot the aircraft from a rocket. All 265 passengers and crew were killed. Thereafter, the then U.S. President Ronald Reagan decided the new GPS system can also be used for civilian purposes, to ensure the aircrew safety. My guardian angel has never let me down, because I have experienced in my travels some " dicey " situations (see travelogue "The Adventures trip from MEXICO CITY by CHICAGO! " .

The old Beijing and the Great Wall

For checking our passports when traveling to China a very complex procedure was used: the passport photograph was carefully checked by photo scanning. For photographing had to adhere to a predetermined position in front of the officials very closely. At the baggage claim you came back with an airport train (as in Frankfurt, the "Sky Train" - but this time at ground level ). The baggage collection worked amazingly fast.

 

 


Our Chinese guide CHEN

 

At the exit waiting for us Chen, the young Chinese tour guide. He was very easy to recognize by its highly held tenenen DERTOUR flag. Now we got to know some of the members of our group closer DERTOUR. There were 10 couples (20 people). The remainder of the group (7 persons) had previously flown with the LUFTHANSA. The number of participants of our CHINA tour so was 27 people. We realized very quickly that here in Beijing, the nuclear disaster in Fukushima / Japan for the Chinese, a much smaller role than in Germany had (although the distance was only about 2000 km).

 

Our bus (this was us the whole time for the trips in and around Beijing are available), we drove to our hotel in Beijing, the hotel YONG AN. Actually, we thought now the afternoon to relax (sleep) to have available! But this was not so, because already by 14 clock 30 we went out as planned (originally the 4th day in Beijing was intended) to the Summer Palace, we located 20 kilometers from the city center reached in half an hour in a northwesterly direction.

 


Door in the Summer Palace

 

Now we can for the first time the historic China to know in all its glory . It was very impressive to us. In 1752 the Emperor Qianlong has this impressive his mother summer palace of the 60th Birthday present . Since 1914, this garden is open to the public.

 


The Imperial Dragon

 

 

Jutta (she is a trained bookseller and graduate social worker) has repeatedly tried to interest me for the American writer and Nobel Prize winner, Pearl S. Buck, who has lived a long time with her missionary family in China. After our return, I read with great enthusiasm her novel " The Girl Orchid" . It is by the Empress Dowager Cixi , who lived from 1835 to 1908 alternately in the summer and in the Imperial Palace in Beijing. At a young age she had come as a concubine at the court. The author calls it in her book " Tsu Hsi ." Amazingly, today there is concubines in China. The ZEIT correspondent in Beijing, Angela Köckritz, has recently written about a very interesting article " The Return of the concubines.

 

During the second Opium War (1856-1860) the Summer Palace by French and British troops was completely devastated. From 1888, the Empress Dowager was completely rebuild the facility. They embezzled funds (hence the Marble Boat on Kunming Lake) that were designed to build up the Navy.

 

After this successful tour, for which we had sufficient time (up to 17 clock) could follow and the interesting comments of our German speaking tour guide Chen with enthusiasm, our feeling of hunger reported. Therefore, Chen took us on the bus to a typical Chinese restaurant, where the food was served in the traditional manner (later repeated itself): We participated in a round table (approximately 10 people).

 

On the table is a rotatable plate (diameter of about 1 meter) was located. Gradually add the hot dishes were served in small bowls (on the plate) and each took by turning the round table a small portion of his choice on his plate. If desired, you could also choose soup as a starter from a large bowl in the center. Actually were to eat only wooden sticks available (for the soup, there were small porcelain spoon) . But for the clumsy " long noses " and forks were served.

 

As a drink, Chinese tea has been pre-served only once. Then, each guest received a complimentary glass of beer (coke , etc.). Who would want to drink another glass, had a large bottle of beer buy (at a price 15-30 yuan - on the cruise ship " Blue Whale "). Mostly we shared the bottle on each other and took alternately payment. Since we had booked for the entire round trip half board (only on the cruise ship " Blue Whale" was served full board) ever after inspection during a lunch or a dinner.

 

If the dinner turned out, we bought fruit and drinks reasonably priced in the small shops that were close to our respective hotels . Excellent was the beverage supply in our coach: there were 10 yuan for three small bottles of chilled mineral water. When getting out, we were besieged by poor Chinese who collected the empty bottles to should they make to money. Normally you drink tap water in China. Therefore, all visited hotels (and the cruise ship) in the bathroom had reserved two bottles of water daily for the morning toilet.

 

After this first day in Beijing, and the very interesting impressions we were glad that we were able to put us around 19 clock for sleeping in bed. Unfortunately, the night was around 23 clock 30 is again at the end, as the " jet lag " had caught up with us. However, we were able to fall asleep around 2 clock again and were taken at 6 clock from our alarm clock from our dreams. This went on four consecutive nights until we adapted ourselves.

 

On the second day in Beijing, we were relatively early and were the first guests in the breakfast restaurant (at 6 clock 45) - only some Asian businessmen came a bit earlier. We were able to orient ourselves in peace and laugh about the yogurt to the small spoon missing. So we learned that the Chinese suck this with a small tube from the beaker (with a second vent hole in the aluminum lid). After a few misunderstandings we get then but little spoon.

 

 


The Great Wall at Badaling

 

Around 8 clock started our bus for a tour of the Great Wall of China. The section of the Great Wall at Badaling is about 60 km away from Beijing (in north), and is very easy to reach from the motorway. This famous building is over 6,000 km long and was built during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) in its present form. You should fend off attacks by the Mongols from the north. There are two ways to climb the Great Wall: west it runs very steep and somewhat flatter in the east. Take the same approach to the Chinese. We were approached by many Chinese as "long nose model" for the group photo to be available.

 


Ming Emperor Yongle

 

Towards the subsequent visit to the Ming Tombs, we visited the motorway restaurant "Friendship Store" in Changping. The food was excellent and I ate with chopsticks for the first time (it was quite good). Afterwards we visited near the Ming Tombs (50 km northwest of Beijing). Particularly impressive was the Changling, the final resting place of Emperor Yongle (1403-1424). This reconstructed grave is empty however. His burial site is the first of the Ming Tombs. 13 Ming emperors were buried over a period of 200 years here.

 

Since 1368 was Nanjing (Nanking), the capital of the new Ming Dynasty. The son of the first Ming Emperor felt in the succession passed over as his nephew was preferred. In 1402 he defeated him and moved as the third Ming emperor " Yongle " the residence back to Beijing. On the ruins of the former Mongol palace he had to build the famous imperial city. In 10 years, the huge palace, which is still called the " Forbidden City " was born, and was precisely aligned in north-south direction.

 

In the funeral hall with the large monument of the Yongle Emperor, I found a reference to a huge Chinese fleet of 62 ships with 27,000 crew members, the seven expeditions to Java, Sumatra, India, Sri Lanka, in the Persian Gulf and eventually into the Red and has conducted sea to East Africa. I thought the Emperor himself would have led these expeditions. But this was one of the most famous eunuchs of the Ming Dynasty, Zheng He. He had risen to the Admiral , and made a name for himself as an explorer in the years 1405-1433. After the Ming Emperor issued an edict for unknown reasons against further voyages and the Chinese ships disappeared from the oceans.

 

 


" Sacred Way "

 

 


" Avenue of Sphinxes "

 

Then we drove on to the so-called Sacred Way and went it in the " wrong " direction to the Great Red Gate. The sacred path extends over a length of 6 km, is located at the upper end of the grave of the Ming Emperor Yongle. The stone statues lining the Sacred Way to the left and right, reminded me of the "Sphinx Alley" from Luxor Temple to the Karnak Temple Complex in Egypt. Unfortunately, only a part of the further Ming tombs are accessible.

 

 


"Bird's Nest " Olympic Green

 

On the way home we visited the "Bird's Nest " stadium in the Olympic site (2008). The Chinese are very proud of their stadium that looks like a bird's nest. 91,000 spectators are in the building space and over 42,000 tons of steel were used. We could we photograph the stadium only at close range. Unfortunately, a visit was not possible.

 


Jutta with sunhat

 

The third day in Beijing was a very special event because our tour guide Chen had pointed out to us that we would do that day for a long walk through the "Forbidden City". Here we experienced the hottest day of our whole China tour with a temperature of 28 deg. C. An elderly participants in our group could already no longer in the garden of the Imperial Palace. Chen organized its transport and we met him later on the bus again . According forewarned we had enough drinks in our red backpack (with two matching external pockets) there. In the lower grounds of the Imperial Palace Jutta bought as sun protection a light hat that suited her very well and became the companion during the entire trip.

 

 


Hall of Supreme Harmony

 

In order not to go with the expected crowds to have, we have passed through the Imperial Palace in north-south direction and thus gained a very good impression. After our return to Germany, we have again the monumental movie " The Last Emperor " (1988 won 9 Oscars). Italian director Bernardo Bertolucci followed in 1987, the fate of the last Chinese emperor Pu Yi in the original buildings of the Imperial Palace. We found it fascinating to be reminded in this way to our experiences in Beijing.

 

 


DERTOUR Our tour group in Beijing

 

After leaving the Imperial Palace by the South Gate (with Mao 's picture on the front page) we reached via a tunnel to the famous Tiananmen Square. There was time for a souvenir photo of our DERTOUR travel group with 27 participants. In the square there was very warm and loud (on large video screens Chinese folklore was played. From demonstrations and protests had nothing to recognize (1989 came here to a massacre of students with tanks). Prior to Mao 's Mausoleum , we were able to observe a large snake of the Chinese, who were waiting on the intake several hours. So this was modern China at the gates of the medieval Imperial Palace.

 


Modern Beijing

 

After a short walk we came to a total of three hours ( for 9 clock in the morning) back to our bus that took us to lunch. After that was the visit to the Temple of Heaven (the Beijing landmark ) on the program.

     

By train to the Terracotta Warriors

Visiting the Temple of Heaven with the Hall of Prayers harvest was the third tourist attraction on 3 Day in Beijing. After the walk through the Imperial Palace in north-south direction and then over the Tiananmen Square we took our bus to Temple of Heaven, which is the landmark of Beijing. The altar is located approximately 2.5 km south-east of the square of heavenly peace.
 

Through a gallery that leads to the east gate, you come to a green area, situated where amateur musicians regularly. There are nine altars in Beijing, which are arranged according to geomantic ritual - cosmological- criteria. The best preserved is the Temple of Heaven, built in 1420 and is open to the public since 1912. With the annual ritual of the emperor asked for the start of spring the successful culture of the seed. This was one of his most important tasks. Relatively early (against 15 clock) were back at the hotel.
 

The 4th Day (on Friday , 15 April 2011) was also the last day in Beijing, as we lead the night train in the 1000 km distant Xi'an. That's why we had been in the morning leave our bags, which were then brought to the main station. Before us Chen had expressly pointed out to close absolutely sure the trunk. We saw this until the following morning in Xi'an again. Our toilet bag and the sleeping stuff we handed in our two backpacks, we could also leave the bus. On the subject of water, I have a supplementary information: Even in the modern hotels in China should not drink the water. Therefore, two small bottles of water were each there for the morning toilet in the bathroom. The unused water took for our daily requirement with.

 


 The lamasery

 

Already at 9 clock we went to the Lama Temple Monastery, which is inhabited by monks. This is an exception, as most temples monasteries are no longer in operation and are maintained by the state as monuments. In the case of the Lama Temple Monastery, the monks have a status of state employees, which are also subject to state control. However, they are held, is possible to finance itself: through entrance fees, by selling souvenirs and also by religious services.

 

 
Monk in the lamasery

 

During the Cultural Revolution (1966-1969), the Lama Temple Monastery was under the special protection of Zhou Enlai (Premier of the People 's Republic of China) and was therefore not destroyed. Access is via a side entrance in front gardens with a bell and drum tower. The individual temples are dedicated to Lord Buddha. There are also Tibetan prayer wheels there (in front of a prayer wheel I Jutta photographed with her ​​Chinese summer hat).
 

Our lunch we enjoyed in a special restaurant that I would like to mention explicitly. It was called " Western Restaurant " and all the dishes were arranged on a long buffet, from which you could use, depending on your mood. There were a lot of different portions of meat. This European way of eating, we were later able to relive in Xi'an and on our Yangtze River cruise ship "Blue Whale".

 

After lunch at the Western restaurant we took the bus into the old town (Hudong) near the bell tower. We met on the walk rickshaw drivers with numerous customers and visited the house of a Chinese man who told us from everyday life and of the rapid changes. This area will soon cease to exist, for the houses to be demolished sooner or later. I'm a regular ZEIT reader and was looking forward shortly after the return on an article of the new ZEIT Korrepondentin in Beijing, Angela Köckritz, about their problems adjusting in the Old Town. I discovered more interesting reports about China from her (see also the above-mentioned article " concubines ").

 



 Chinese in the Old Town

 

The rest of the afternoon (up to exit the main train station in Beijing, 17 against clock) we had free time. First we got ourselves in a small supermarket drinks and fruit for the train ride. We would have still bought some chocolate. This we found but too expensive. In a larger, multi-story department store, we should be able to satisfy all of our requests, told Chen. According to the sales staff was pushy. Jutta could only choose two subjects. In a side street we sit on a bench, enjoying the beautiful weather and watching the people passing by. There were a surprising number of white underneath - we were probably in a better residential area of ​​Beijing.

 

Because again during rush hour (which was actually for the entire day) was , took the ride to the central station over an hour. After a long walk (thank God we had no case here) by the huge train station we came to the departure track of our overnight train to Xi'an. Our compartment with 4 beds we had exclusive use of you, because we had been in Germany for private use an additional fee of 138, - EUR paid.

Before going to sleep, we organized the train crew nor the alarm clock at 6 the next morning and one serving of coffee for breakfast. The night ride was quiet and we were able to sleep very well. In the morning it was impressive to see watch the monotonous loess landscape while driving. The morning toilet caused because of the great rush on them (as we had previously seen) difficulties. To this end, the poor hygienic conditions were in the toilet and in the washroom (shower there was not). Therefore, we used our wet wipes, which we carry in all our travels as standard equipment , for a refreshing " quick wash ".

This train ride was, as already stated, no problems. In Germany, I later learned from a disaster on a high-speed lines: On 23 April 2011 met with very bad weather, two high-speed trains in Wenzhou (south of Shanghai) together. There were 40 deaths. Since the information policy of the state bodies left much to be desired, there was a great outcry on the Internet. For Chinese standards, this was an unusual reaction and the ZEIT Korrepondentin Angela Köckritz this in depth.

 

 The DERTOUR tour guide Li (with glasses)

Around 8 clock (on Saturday , 16 April 2011) we arrived at the station in Xi'an. Already on train we were greeted by our new tour guide Li (to detect them was wearing the DERTOUR flag with her). In Xi'an we had first to complete a longer walk of about 15 minutes until we got to our bus that took us to our Garden Hotel Xi'an ( Xi'an Garden Hotel ) brought , where we arrived at 8 clock 30 .

 

 

 Xi'an Garden Hotel

 

Famished we jumped up onto the magnificent breakfast which was very tastefully prepared in a separate room. Also, the operator turned out to be courteous friendly. Then we got the key to our room (2462) , so that we could shower us first. Even matching bathrobes were available. At 10 clock was greeted by our luggage, which we had passed on the morning of progress against own day in the hotel in Beijing. This time Jutta was 5 yuan tip per case (over the entire trip came, a larger amount of 100, - euros alone for gratuities together).

 

Xi'an is the capital of Shaanxi Province and has more than 5 million inhabitants. It is in the fertile plain of the Wei River. Once Xi'an was the largest city in the world and served as capital 11 Tang dynasties. It developed as a hub for major trade hub at the main trading routes to Central Asia and Europe. Xi'an was also the end point of the ancient Silk Road.

 

A special tourist attraction is the Terracotta Army of the first Chinese Emperor Qin Shihuandi. It is located about 28 km east of Xi'an in a larger museum complex and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The first Emperor gave the order for the 60 km ² grave complex with numerous pits , ditches and walls. 700,000 workers are said to have built in 36 years, the facility (according to notes of the historian of the Han dynasty Sima Qian). The grave monument of the Emperor has not yet been opened. Discovered in 1974 a farmer at the wells approximately 1.80 m clay soldiers.

 

 Terracotta Warriors

 

The road from our Garden Hotel in Xian (exit against 10 clock 30) to the museum with the terracotta army was cumbersome, because the highway connection was closed due to a high state visit. On the way back the track was free again. The sight was fascinating - especially under the aspect that the first Emperor of the Qin dynasty lived about 200 BC. Very interesting was the look in the repair shop, where the individual shards (there was a peasant uprising in which many characters were destroyed) reassembled cumbersome.

 

After this impressive outing in the early history of China in the late afternoon we were back in our hotel. Very interesting information I gathered later, an article by Angela Köckritz (rivers of mercury). Obviously had our tour guide Li difficulties with the organization of the dinner at our hotel, because originally it should be taken as a lunch somewhere else. With the appointment by 17 clock we were just too early and demanded the chef and his staff, so many wishes remained open - we just had already eaten better in China.

 

The following day (Sunday, April 17, 2011) welcomed us with beautiful weather and we absorbed the relaxed atmosphere in this excellent hotel in Xi'an on formally. After breakfast we admired the Tang garden and an elderly Chinese in the Tai Chi. These fit two majestic swans that passed in peace. We wanted to visit at 8 clock 30, the big wild goose pagoda nearby.

 

Xi'an was in the period from 11th century BC to the 9th Century  AD the center of the Chinese world. On the opposite side of the Wei River was located in Xianyang in the 3rd Century BC China, the first capital of residence to the seat of the emperor. Under the Han Dynasty, the residence has been relocated to the southern river bank. The highlight was the Tang Dynasty in the 7th and 8 Century  AD. From this period dates the Big Wild Goose Pagoda.

 

 
 Big Wild Goose Pagoda

 

We visited the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which was near our Garden hotels, and could very easily be reached on foot. The 73 m high and seven-story brick tower from the year 647 was damaged several times by earthquakes and Buddhists and then restored. He belongs to the monastery of Great Mercy and goodness which is next door. Upon entering the monastery courtyard, we were kindly asked to leave the monastery again.

 

Now was still visiting the Grand Mosque on the program. The Great Mosque is one of the most beautiful in the Chinese style and fascinated by the quiet courtyards, the total harmonic system and the fine reliefs on the buildings (the only way I could recognize as Islamic art). Two imperial inscription steles in the second courtyard, which are from the stone Schmucktor left and right, from the years 1606 or in 1768. They relate to construction and renovation work, which was funded by the yard. The "Pagoda of the examination of conscience " serves as a minaret.

 

 

Islamic inscriptions

 

After a short bus ride and a winding walk through the breathtaking bazaar of Xian we arrived at the Grand Mosque. There just mourning ceremony for a deceased Muslim took place. The Muslims were recognized by their white caps. At various buildings I recognized Islamic character. What surprised me the minaret, from the muezzin to prayer. It was a relatively low building and in no way a tower.

After the city tour (Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Great Mosque) and lunch (with an excellent buffet) we drove to the airport of Xian. We once saw a part of the old city wall. The journey time was approximately 1 h We flew on China Eastern (Flight-No. MU2262 ) in the 800 km away Chongqing. There is the port for the cruise ships on the Yangtze River. We checked in Xian as a group so that we also have no problem with being overweight had (allowed 20 kg for domestic flights). However, this method could not be selected the seats (Jutta had 5F and I 12A). Otherwise, the flight worked very well and we arrived in Chongqing after an hour flight to. The DERTOUR tour guide Shimbo picked us up and took us by bus to the Holiday Inn North Chongqing (Holiday Inn Hotel) . We surprised the many high-rise buildings . Also go to the " real estate bubble" Angela Köckritz wrote an important article , which has confirmed my impressions in China. (Property bubble CHINA)

 

 View from Holiday Inn
 

In Chongqing (direct-controlled city) covers an area of 82,400 km ² over 32 million inhabitants. These figures also relate to the surrounding mountains, the villages and other towns. Since it's very mountainous, is called Chongqing as the only Chinese " big city without cyclists ". Chongqing is located 2400 km from the mouth of the Yangtze River located in the East China Sea. Here ends the Jialing Jiang in the Yangtze River. 1935 Chongqing war capital was fled as the national government from the advancing Japanese.

On the Yangtze from Chongqing to the Three Gorges Dam

 

 

The treasury mountain of Dazu

 

Since we had taken our lunch before our flight to Chongqing, Xi'an, we left in the evening after showering our hotel Holiday Inn to buy drinks and fruit. Although here in North Chongqing in very small spaces numerous high-rise buildings (in which live the Chinese) are, we discovered during our nocturnal excursion small parks where cavorted many Chinese families (it was Sunday).

 

They were also very friendly towards us and we had to be the first time on our trip feel integrated, and participate in the life of the Chinese allowed to. About the lives of Chinese families in the past and in today's China has been quoted several times ZEIT correspondent, Angela Köckritz, a very informative article written (life in CHINA) .

 

At the beginning of my trip report (Part I) I have already referred to the novels of American Literature Nobel Laureate Pearl S. Buck. In particular, the biography of the Empress Dowager Cixi ( " The Girl Orchid" ) and " The Good Earth " (for Pearl S. Buck was awarded the Nobel Prize Literature) have fascinated me. " The women of home Wu " were slightly away my imagination. And now I am working with her novel " God's creatures " . Again, it is the historical neighborhood that inspires me: Two young missionary sons experience the Boxer Rebellion ( initiated by the Empress Dowager Cixi ) in 1900 and the terrible persecution of Christians in China and have to leave the country for the USA ( its original home ), where they Careers making.
 

Even today in China there is persecution of Christians. Therefore, an " underground church " emerged, where " every Sunday of the uprising is rehearsed against the authorities " - the ZEIT correspondent in Beijing, Angela Köckritz ( underground church ).

 

The humiliation, the first the Chinese people during the Opium War (1840 - 1842), the second Opium War (1856 - 1860) and during the Boxer Rebellion (1900) experienced by the Western powers, Britain, France and Germany, should according to the statements of the ZEIT - author Matthias Nass with the reasons for the resurgence of this nation as the leading economic power be ( ZEIT - Post "The temptation is to say China" dated May 26, 2011 # 22 p. 57).

 

After this excursion into the historical and political context of China 's I want to focus again on our tour of this fascinating country: On 7th Day in China (Monday, April 18, 2011) evening we went on board our cruise ship "Blue Whale" to a tour downstream on the Yangtze River, which until Thursday morning (21 April 2011) lasted. Therefore, our bags were collected at the Holiday Inn after breakfast and we were able to take this on the ship back to reception (for a handsome tip).

 

By changing our cruise ship (see ship review " Blue Whale" ) , we had the opportunity to visit the Buddhist cave sculptures near Dazu in treasury mountain in the morning . Besides Dunhuang, Luoyang and Yungang these are the most impressive Buddhist cave sculptures in China.

 

Fleeing religious persecution Buddhists came from the Silk Road in the semi-autonomous Kingdom of Shu. Since the late Tang period to the Jin Dynasty (late 9th to the mid 13th century). These portraits created in almost 40 mountain and rock shelters. About 50,000 painted sculptures attest to the merging of Buddhist and Confucian motifs. This completed the Buddhists probably a " kowtow " before the Confucian state power.

 

DERTOUR tour guide Shimbo in treasury mountain

 

The drive from Chongqing there (about 80 km) took our bus about 3 hours, and led by a typical Chinese landscape with a lot of rice cultivation. The cave sculptures belong since 1999 a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our DERTOUR tour guide led us Shimbo in German language by the interesting complex. Particularly impressive were the scenes of the " Last Judgment ". After lunch we drove back to Chongqing, where we arrived about 18 clock on our cruise ship Blue Whale. Since the restaurant was already closed on the ship, we bought the usual fruit and drinks in a large supermarket above the deposition site ( "last supermarket on the Yangtze").

 

 
Dock on the Yangtze

 

The catchment area of the Yangtze River stretches over an area of ​​approximately 2 million square kilometers with hot, humid summers (with ample rainfall) and cold, dry winters. The headwaters of the Yangtze River are fed by 5,000 m high Glestschern of Tangula in the northeast of the Tibetan Plateau. At the mouth of the Min River ( in Yibin - to get the Yangtze River is navigable ) begins the middle reaches of the Yangtze River. Between Fengjie and Yichang it flows through the impressive Three Gorges of the central Chinese mountain country. From the dam in Yichang Gezhouba at the lower reaches of the Yangtze River begins. He passes through the cities of Wuhan, Wuhu and Nanjing. After more than 6300 km of the Yangtze River flows north of Shanghai in a 200 km wide estuary in the East China Sea.

 

Welcome by the captain of the "Blue Whale"

 

21.30 clock put our ship from Chongqing. At night we reached Fengdu. On Tuesday morning, 19.4.2011, we visited 8.30 bis 10.30 clock very interesting ghost town. In 171 km distance from the start of our Yangtze Cruise, Chongqing lies the small town of Fengdu, which is notorious since the Han period as " the entrance to Hades ." Across the street is the impressive "ghost town" on the 288 m high mountain temple Ming Shan. Below the Temple Mount anchored our cruise ship "Blue Whale". The Daoist Temple and newconstructed figures (after the destruction during the Cultural Revolution), one could also better than " Devil's Town " call , because this shows what happens to one in ten Chinese hells.

 

 

Visitors to the ghost town

According to the Chinese one must await the judgment of the Court of hell and then atone in terrible tortures for his sins. After that you will eventually reborn - depending on past life only as a dog or a worm. The origin of these spirits or hell city dates back to the Han Dynasty 2,000 years ago, when two officers, Mr. Yin and Mr. Wang, withdrew from the government service and here began the life of Taoist hermits.

 

 Cruise ship " Blue Whale " on the Yangtze

 

Our cruise ship Blue Whale had created on the opposite side of the city Fengdu  800,000 inhabitants). We were in the first Section with electric carts transported upwards. From there, the walk went on and after 400 steps , we reached the "ghost town", which is located on the 288 m high mountain temple Ming Shan. On this trip, which lasted about 2 hours, accompanied us to the ship photographer who was doing a DVD movie and shot pictures.

 

At 11 clock we took off and arrived at 16 clock in Shiboazai. There could - if desired - the "Stone Treasure Pagoda" be visited. We did not participate. The journey took around 19 clock continues to Fengjie, where we anchored on Wednesday, 20.4.2011 from 3 clock. There Qutang Gorge began (8 km long, 15 min drive-through) in which we entered against 10 clock. At 12 clock we came to our next landing Wushan.

 

In conjunction with the Three Gorges Staudammm the city Wushan was newly built. There lay on most cruise ships and passengers are switching to smaller vessels, with which the Daning - River (Daning He) is traversed. He was a tributary of the Yangtze River, whose lower reaches are but disappeared by the dam. It happened on the way " Three Little Gorges ". In the middle gorge ( " Misty Gorge " ) should be on a rock face on the left side in a low, inaccessible cave a wooden coffin see (note: despite evidence failed us). This burial custom is attributed to the proto - Chinese Ba culture. Until the Ming period was maintained in the secluded valleys.

 

 
On the Daning River

 

We were up on a smaller ship, with which we sailed the adventurous canyon of the Daning River. Although it was raining - but the creation of existing life jackets were not required. We passed a very exciting and impressive landscape. Supposedly should be hanging in the cliff walls coffins with the dead. We could not locate this though. The helmsman (Captain) invited me to come into the closed cab and operate the ship's rudder. It worked quite well. We drove about 2 hours upstream, placed anywhere and were after 4 hours back to our cruise ship.

 

 
Cruise ship " Blue Whale"

 

At 17 clock went by M. S. Blue Whale through the Wu Gorge. It ends in Badung. In the early morning of Thursday, 21.4.2011, we reached at 1.30 clock the first lock of the Three Gorges Dam. At 6 clock we had passed all 5 locks. Overall, we had covered a distance of 660 km. There was then a short section to Yichang, where we continue flew to Shanghai. The entire trip was very impressive and the service excellent.

 

The dam is located in the Xiling Gorge (the 3rd) at the city Sandouping, Circle Yichang, Hubei Province, about 40 km from the first dam Gezhouba (built 1986) in the Yangtze River and 660 km from Chongqing away. The length of the dam is 2309 m, the height of 185 m above sea level, the width of the dam crest 18 m and width of the foot dam 124 m. The maximum water level is 175 m above sea and the water gradient 113 m (maximum). The entire reservoir has a length of 650 km, and the average width is 1.1 km. The storage capacity is 39.3 billion cubic meters - of which the share for flood prevention is 22.5 billion cubic meters. The suppliers of the 32 generators: 6 Siemens, 8 of GEC Alsthom, 18 local). The performance of individual generators is 700 MW. A total of 104 250 000 000 KW of electricity is generated annually.
 

There are 5 lock chambers of 280 m long, 34 m wide, 5 m depth. The size of the currently built hydraulic lift is 120 m long, 18 m wide and 3.5 m depth. The entire construction took 17 years: 1993 to 1997, the first phase, 1997-2003, the second phase, from 2003 to 2009, the third phase. In the official description of the Chinese side, the total cost after the recent bill 180 billion yuan (20 billion euros) are called (were planned 200 billion yuan - 22.2 billion euros). Overall, 1.4 million people had to be resettled (13 cities, 140 small towns, 1352 villages, 657 factories, 1,600 schools and 800 historic sites).

 

After we passed the 5 locks of the Three Gorges Dam at 6 clock, we had until around 8:30 clock on our cruise ship MS Blue Whale wait until we could go in the small town of Sandouping ashore. There was waiting a bus with a local tour guide (but only spoke English) to us and we drove to the guarded area of the dam.

 

We were only allowed to enter this area after our bags and backpacks had been X-rayed. We visited the large dam and the boat lift for smaller vessels to be completed in 2014. After that we saw in a hall the model of the entire project.

From a small hill we had an excellent overview what the locks, which were covered with several ships. At 11 clock we came back to our ship. We then drove through the third and last gorge, the Xiling Gorge. Around 13.30 clock, we disembarked (40 km away from the dam) at Yichang.

In the footsteps of Marco Polo and the turbulent Shanghai

Under time pressure we arrived at our bus at the airport in Yichang. Then there were also problems with the boarding passes, because there were too few have been printed. Our tour guide Chang almost desperate. My wife finally got her boarding pass after she presented her passport and her name has been transmitted.
 
As might be expected, we had no common seats again. After all this excitement, our plane was then but in time (15h to 05) to the domestic airport of Shanghai. The flight time was 1.5 hours. At the airport waiting for us our DERTOUR travel manager Mike, who accompanied us on our entire last leg.
 
By bus we went on the 80 km distant Suzhou. We arrived there in the pouring rain in our Bamboo Grove Hotel. Since there is no common dinner (our last meal was at noon on the ship) again we searched in the rain a store where we could buy fruit and drinks. This was not easy in this area of ​​Suzhou and we also missed a food stall (as in Chongqing).
 

On Friday morning, 22 April 2011, we walked from the hotel to the nearby "Garden of the fishing master" . Suzhou is known as the former " Venice of the East " and is crossed by numerous canals. On the way to the garden we came across a canal bridge. The "Garden of the Master of Net " ( as he is also known) is the smallest plant of 5,000 square meters in Suzhou. This gives a very nice impression on the design of Chinese gardens of the past.

 



 Garden of fishing master
 

After visiting the "Garden of the fishing master", we drove our bus to the very impressive " Lingering Garden ". There we liked the songs a Chinese singer who has rowed across the lake. Another musician we discovered on our way through the large garden in an open house. At the output played on a small stage, a theater group. So we got a very good impression of subtle, Chinese culture. The bonsai garden with different trees was very interesting.
 

 

 

Marco Polo visited during his time in Beijing (13th century). And the southern cities of Suzhou and Hangzhou. He was thrilled by the silk mill in Suzhou and the impressive palaces, magnificent temples, idyllic parks and wide avenues in Hangzhou. In his time there was already the Grand Canal, which represents a connection to Beijing. In the 12th Century the Song Emperor of Beijing was moved to Hangzhou. At that time, the silk weaving developed in Suzhou to the center of China. There were over 14 channels, 359 bridges (one of which was named Marco Polo Bridge), 50 temples and 12 pagodas.

 

 

 Marco Polo Bridge

 

After visiting the interesting gardens of Suzhou, we went to visit the silk weaving. On the way, showed us to our Chinese DERTOUR travel manager Mike the Marco Polo Bridge. It is popularly known. Officially it is called Wumen river, lies near the southern city gate. During his time ( around 1270 ) in China, he should also have visited Suzhou and was impressed by the Chinese silk. About the former Silk Road, which begins in Xian, he was from the west to the court of the Mongol ruler Dhubilai Khan in the former Beijing (Marco Polo called it Khanbalik) arrives.

 

 Rush hour in Hangzhou

After a visit to a silk mill and a less good lunch ( the restaurant next to the silk mill ) we launched against 15 clock 30 with the bus to another 150 kilometers to Hangzhou.Two hours later we arrived at our Best Western Hangzhou Hotel. The trip took longer because we came in the rush hour. Our hotel was right in the noisy city center. Nevertheless, we had difficulties to find a small supermarket here. For a change, we landed in a large market hall in which all goods were just tidied for the workday. The impressions spoiled our appetite .

Between the lower reaches of the Quitang River and the West Lake is Hangzhou, the provincial capital of Zheijiang. In Greater live 8 million inhabitants. As the main attraction of Hangzhou West Lake applies the ( so termed for its location ). The 5.2 sq km of lakes, is like a park laid out and has many temples, pagodas and pavilions. The average water depth is 1.5 m and the lake is bounded on three sides by mountains.

 


Boat on the West Lake

We started our sightseeing on Saturday morning, 23 April 2011, with a boat trip on the West Lake.This is the main attraction of Hangzhou , located in the west of the city ( with a size of 5.6 km ²). On the way from the bus trip to our bus we could see a large group of Chinese at the morning gym .

 

In the morning exercises
 
The Harmony Pagoda is located 3 km south of the West Lake, and stands on a hill - with a magnificent view of the River Qiantang Jiang with the 1934-1937 built road railway bridge (1.4 km long). The exact name of the sixfold harmony evokes the sixfold unity and commonality in the Buddha Monastery: in teaching, leadership , worship, liturgy , morality and faith.

 
Marriage market before the Harmony Pagoda
 
 
 
 
After the boat trip on the West Lake , we drove south to Harmony Pagoda, which is beautifully situated in a park. From the hill you also have an excellent view of the Qiantang River. The Six Harmonies Pagoda is octagonal and 60 m high. It was once used as a lighthouse. The exterior wood siding is 13 stories  but of which only 7 floors are committed.
 
When we visited the pagoda on Saturday morning, just a marriage market was held. These usually take place in public places, for which no entry has to be paid (such as when you visit the Pagoda) told us the Chinese DERTOUR travel manager Mike.

 

 Mages on the market
 
On the map of the " Night Market " ( night market ) is clearly marked and is located east of West Lake. In a sense, through the back door to get into a very interesting museum with gold occupied, impressive figures. Attached to the museum is also a sales shop. After the sightseeing in Hangzhou ( boat tour on the West Lake , Harmony Pagoda ) we went to the market in the old town. We found him interesting day. We had an hour to conquer it on your own. Then the bus went to Shanghai (about 200 km).

The fishing village of Zhujiajiao is also commonly called water village. It is located on the eastern shore of Dianshan Lake about 40 km west of Shanghai , is also administratively it. Despite recent modernization and development for the tourist to win impressions of a bygone era.


 

Boating in the fishing village

 
On our bus ride from Hangzhou to Shanghai visited the interesting fishing village. Getting there was quite complicated and we were traveling from Hangzhou about 3 hours. But the effort was worth it: We took a small boat through several channels that were spanned by numerous stone bridges. In this way, we arrived in the historic center of the Ming and Qing dynasties. On the way back we walked alone on foot, which is designed to be not very easy, because the streets ( pedestrians only ) were very winding. There were numerous fish restaurants, was lured into the massively. We drove two hours for dinner on to Shanghai.

 

 Entrance to the Hyatt Hotel
 
After an exhausting bus tour of Hangzhou on the interesting fishing village of Zhujiajiao and a good dinner with a small stage show in Shanghai wanted my wife and I actually only to the hotel to relax (it was full 21 clock on Saturday , 23 April 2011).
 
Nevertheless, we DERTOUR our tour guide Mike tried to convince us to a candlelight tour of Shanghai ( costs 50 yuan for the tour and 100 yuan for visiting the observation deck of the Jin Mao Tower in Pudong - 420 m altitude ).
 

 

 

We participated only on the tour, but it was also disappointing because I lacked a suitable tripod for the night shots. We saw of Pudong from the colonial to the "covenant" in a beautiful lighting. But for a tour of the night Nanjing Road we had no sense. Around 23 clock we were at our hotel ( Zhongxiang Hotel Shanghai). The following evening (Sunday , April 24, 2011) one could perform these lights tour much more relaxed.

 

 In the teahouse

 
 
 
 
The tea house, located in the pond in the middle, belonged to the 19th Century to the "Garden of satisfaction ", today's Yu Garden. Its main gate is opposite the teahouse. The garden was created in 1559 as a retreat by a senior official of the Ming period. After that there were stages of savagery, of decay and redesigns.
 
In the 19th Century in the Yu Garden foreign military forces stationed. 1875 acquired 21 guilds the site and set up meeting rooms. From 1956 to 1961, the garden was reconstructed and prepared again.

 

 In the Yu Garden
 
Our sightseeing, on Sunday, the 24th September 2011, began in Yu Garden, which lies in the middle of the old town of Shanghai. This was very impressive and is one of the most impressive literary gardens in southern China. We visited around 10 clock the garden and there were only a few tourists go.
 

The old town of Shanghai was already before 1 after Opium War, the foreigners came. From the original old town from the time of pre-revolutionary China, there are only remnants. The original district near the Old North Gate was demolished and replaced by buildings in the style of old Shanghai. Of east lies the impressive Yuyuan Garden. It was created in 1559 as a retirement residence of a high official of the Ming Dynasty. Directly in front of the main entrance there is the Huxington tea-house, which is only accessible via the nine-piece Zigzag Bridge.


 

In the photo studio in the old town

 
Jutta and made ​​me wandering alone through the old town of Shanghai lot of fun. We saw older Chinese and take pictures this also. From the dangerousness of this district for foreigners nothing more was to be felt.
They lured us in a photo studio. There, the picture was taken: " The mafia boss of Shanghai with his wife - Jutta and I in disguise ".
 
After visiting the beautiful Yu Gardens and the Old Town ( with a flying - visit of Huxington tea-house ) we walked to the beach promenade " BUND ". There are scores of popular buildings from the colonial era. We met again before the PEACE hotels on Nanjing Road, which begins at the waist and heads west towards the entrance. By bus we went on to the Jade Buddha Temple.



On BUND
 

One of the few temples in Shanghai is the Jade Buddha Temple, which is located near the main railway station in the northwestern part. The temple was created in its present form only in the time from 1918 to 1928. Its history dates back only to 1880. About this time that a Chinese monk from Burma (now Miramar ) with two Jadebuddhas. Faithful donors donated to the temple for these beautiful stone figures. The lavish , gilded figure program in the temple is a further indication of the wealth of the city. A trick these religious images survived the Cultural Revolution ( 1966-1969 ): The monks stuck Mao portraits of the double leaf doors. In violent opening Mao would have been torn.

 

Jade Buddha figure

 
The next stop of our Sunday ( 24 April 2011 ) Today's tour was the impressive Jade Temple. For the first time we noticed in the vicinity of a temple complex there are numerous beggars (Mother of disabled child in her arms , children, men and women). It was not easy to resist her. Also in the temple complex we were asked by an "official " (in the suit), a special exhibition in the first Stick to visit, but which ultimately resulted in opening a retail business. Ready made ​​my wife and I around. During the entire visit this temple gave us an uncomfortable feeling not leave ( for the first time on our trip ).



 Nanjing Road
 
After visiting the Jade Buddha Monastery gave us our DERTOUR travel manager Mike 2 hours time for a " shopping spree " in the pedestrian zone of the famous Nanjing Road. For the correspondingly expensive goods we did not need - especially since we had already bought us on the previous CHINA tour interesting things.
 
We took the opportunity to observe Chinese families at the People's Suare. Then we discovered a "Road Train " with the words "CITY Tour" (Price 2 yuan per person). We thought of a city tour - however, they only drove the pedestrian zone up and down. After 2 rounds we got out. At McDonalds we ordered a Coke and discovered on the wall of a large photograph of the colonial Shanghai. It was a very interesting afternoon which cost almost nothing to us.


 

 Arrival of TRANSRAPID
 
A ride on the Transrapid (Chinese: Maglev ) was very impressive: in 8 minutes he put the 31 km from the metro station of Line 2 ( in PUDONG district ) to the Pudong International Airport back and reached a speed of 420 km / h Great fatigue our drive was on Monday morning , 25 April 2011 , by bus from our hotel , which was opposite the main station (north of Shanghai ). With our luggage had to not try to change trains. This was transported separately from the hotel to the airport . If you use the subway (line 2), this is an excellent way to avoid the numerous jams.
 
The Transrapid Shanghai needed for the 30 km distance to the Pudong International Airport 7 minutes and 18 seconds. After 3 ½ minutes, it reaches the operating speed of 430 km / h . This is held for 50 seconds and then started the deceleration phase. The average speed on this route is 247 km / h. The Transrapid line travels the day for 14 hours and can be transported per trip up to 440 passengers. On average (as of end of 2007) were transported daily around 7,500 passengers.
 
An easy drive 2 Class costs 50 yuan (about 5.50 euros ), upon presentation of a valid ticket 40 yuan (about 4.40 euros ). That's 10 times the price of an urban subway ride about 5-7 stations, or 2.5 times the price of the airport bus, which connects the city directly to the Pudong airport. However, the time advantage and comfort is crucial.
 
 
 
The route is deficient according to media reports due to low utilization. BBC News named the 20th January 2009 , citing China Business Journal a loss of operators of at least 100 million euros by the end of 2007 and an occupancy rate of below 20 percent. This also confirms my opinion that it is a pure Prestige case. For us, the trip by TRANSRAPID was the interesting conclusion of an exciting tour of CHINA (11 April to 25 April 2011), where we have approximately 4,000 km by bus, train, boat, plane and finally covered with the TRANSRAPID.



 

Impressum

Tag der Veröffentlichung: 17.02.2014

Alle Rechte vorbehalten

Nächste Seite
Seite 1 /